Currently set to No Index
Currently set to No Follow

SURFERS

Matt Mccabe (Metabolism of a rat)

_

Dane Reynolds (Still fairly nimble for 200 pounds and never stretching)

We took a pause in programming out of respect and solidarity with the current civil rights movement. Surf videos aren’t urgent, there’s more important issues at hand. I never intended for this site to cover anything but surfing, and hopefully this is our only departure, but I’ve decided to take this moment to open up a conversation. 

Here we go…

I surf with Matt a lot. More often than not in really crappy waves. Ventura in the summer can get pretty bleak. 

Between sets we shoot the shit, usually about funny things – our buddy having a paranoid meltdown after Matt told him to eat a whole weed candy, bill and mini gettin on each others nerves, stuff like that, but lately the topic of conversation has shifted to current events. We both have friends and family on extreme sides of the increasingly divided political spectrum that feed us information and the absurdity of what’s getting spread has reached a threshold for me. 

Social media’s gone mad. Left and Right media are conflicting on every issue. Misinformation is spreading like a disease. 

Can anyone tell me what the hell is actually going on out there? 

Is it a coincidence that all this chaos is happening during an election year? I can’t help to think about how supposed Russian operatives used social media to create division and chaos in America during our last presidential election. 

It’s really not that hard, Anyone can invent a fictional story around an event or a person, connect a few dots, post on youtube or facebook or a meme on instagram or twitter and someone will believe it. Post something real enticing and it just might go viral. Evidence? Shit even the president doesn’t care to fact check before posting. Social media is an open stage for spreading false narratives.

Are things more bizarre and unfathomably scripted than we can imagine? Are we pawns in a massive scheme? 

Or is it mostly straightforward… to use the current situation as a reference – an unfortunate set of events… coronavirus spread to a human in a wet market in China and is highly infectious so it spread like wildfire into a global pandemic and then two months later a fucking heartless person with a badge got recorded abusing his power and ultimately killing a black man over a misdemeanor which triggered global protests and a movement for equality and police reform which will ultimately be a positive change?

I know the reality lies somewhere in-between… I wish to believe that for the most part politicians are good people that look out for the greater good, and create policies that benefit everyone from the disenfranchised to the wealthy. But that’s a fairy tale, 

It’s all a fucking mess man. 

I sympathize with the black community, who have been suffering from systemic racism since being stolen from their homes and shipped to America as slaves 100’s of years ago. Some basic reading if you need a reminder –

https://lawenforcementmuseum.org/2019/07/10/slave-patrols-an-early-form-of-american-policing/

https://www.history.com/topics/early-20th-century-us/jim-crow-laws

https://theconversation.com/the-racist-roots-of-american-policing-from-slave-patrols-to-traffic-stops-112816

I sympathize with police. Policing is the last line of work I would want to do – confronting people every day who are breaking the law. Enforcing minor infractions would just be sad. Dealing with people committing real infractions would be sketchy, being a police officer dealing with sketchy situations day in and day out has to warp your perspective on how to treat people fairly.

There’s people everywhere with poor judgement and no moral compass, angry fearful self absorbed egotistical mean and judgmental people. How people with those traits can become our leaders and law enforcers I don’t know. 

I don’t have any answers, I try to think logically, rationally, critically, vote, support businesses that support causes I believe in, treat everyone with respect, teach my kids good values… but it doesn’t feel like enough…

Pandemic, protests, lies, rallies, conspiracies, corruption, environment, justice…

How is it going to end?

And can we discuss these issues without everyone shitting their pants in anger?

The ball is in your court. Comment below.

Thanks for tuning in,

Dane

70 thoughts on “004

  1. Disconnect. Kill the internet, or at the very least, kill social media. Demand reparations for our data. Be kind to all living things. Grow food. Be mindful.

  2. I’m at a loss for words. I don’t know what’s going on or what I can do to help the situation. I honestly stay in my own family bubble. All the sick surf edits from my favorite surfers around the globe help tune out the noise. I wait for waves to hit my local break which is rare (east coast) and try a few turns. 🤙 btw I froth on young guns on the regular.

    1. Since your readers are predominantly white males, I guess I should’ve expected comments like the ones I’m reading here. I liked everything you wrote but obviously something is missing if your readers came away with these nonchalant, half ass replies. Maybe a call to action would’ve helped. Idk. Sounds like a lot of your readers like their lil bubbles a lil too much. What are you doing as a white male other than, “being nice to everyone” which you’ve likely already been doing anyway? What else? This needs more. What can your whole male surfer friends and readers do to be better allies? All these white dudes and I don’t see any call to actively fighting systemic racism, only Reading how strange this time has been for the county and world. Idk man… Something is really missing here.

  3. Very great full to hear a neutral outlook on these weird and pressing times we are experiencing. Keep on producing quality content like this! You are keeping stoke alive for more people than you probably realize

  4. Thanks for being a voice that demonstrates that there are people, such as yourself, that can identify that the truth (or solution) is usually somewhere in the middle. Not everything needs to be massively polarizing.

    On that same note, the reason why I enjoy watching you and some of the Ventura guys surf is because it’s relatable…even though you rip circles around all of us.

  5. Totally agree with your points. I guess breaking of the final straw of police brutality is a silver lining to this global cloud of uncertainty and fear. Whilst it’s a great idea to question everything, it’s probably not healthy to overthink it too much. My plan is to keep my head down, keep working hard, be nice to people and trust that life will go on, whilst appreciating the simple pleasures to keep me sane (mostly beer and surfing)! May not save the world by doing so but I’ll hopefully stay happy and have positive energy with which to raise my daughter 🙂

  6. Encourage solidarity, help those around you, confront the systems that reproduce inequality and violence. I have had the opportunity to protest and to support protestors, but what has been helpful for me to find clarity and develop opinion and plans of action in this time has been removing myself and listening to those who are suffering. Seeing those NYPD officers crying about getting “poisoned” when they got tummyaches after some Shake Shack milkshakes is not what I am referring to, but hearing those who have had friends and family harmed and murdered by police ultimately inspired me to take action. At the end of the day I think you can only do what feels natural, going out and adding my body to the masses in the streets is what feels most just for me

  7. Hit the nail on the end re: conspiracy theories and stringing together convenient bullet points while ignoring everything else to create a narrative that fits the world view. Look at the alt-right. Not enough people willing to take the effort to do some reading and digging to figure out what is truth and what is fiction. Much easier to ingest whatever Fox News, or CNN for that matter is spoon feeding.

    On a lighter note please keep putting out edits of shitty emma wood. gets me psyched and Inspires me to go grovel the shit waves out front day in and day out. Watching perfect waves isn’t relatable and just leads to frustrating sessions at home where the waves get like that maybe once a year.

    1. CNN is not the opposite of Fox News. That would be MSNBC. They all are biased one way or another, however Fox is the only one that repeatedly lies.

  8. Thanks Dane, I honestly don’t talk to anyone about current issues because they are so polarized most of the time. But that gets old and after a while it’s the isolation from discussing with people that seems to be the real tragedy/goal. There are powers that benefit from a divided people whether that power caused the division or is just capitalizing on it. I have a couple young kids like you and just hope I can teach them as much as I can about respecting all people and also not believing everything they hear – but instead to think for themselves. Keep up the great work, you have been an inspiration at every point of your life for myself and countless others.

  9. A lot of people are struggling for survival, not just in the sense of being able to safely walk down the street without being targeted, but also surviving in the economic sense. These people (the multi-racial working class, but especially black and brown people) largely have no representation in American government. Both political parties largely represent the wealthy and the polarization that you speak of mostly focuses on arguments over individual candidates, not the big picture material issues that dictate our everyday lives. This isn’t new and has been happening throughout American (and worldwide) history: we focus on the distraction, not the root cause. A lot of different authors have been helping me make sense of our current situation – Angela Davis, James Baldwin, Marx, Engels, Kropotkin, CLR James, Ho Chi Minh… all great stuff if you want to dig in.

  10. Social media has proven to be such a double-edged sword. The same information-sharing tools that have allowed a video of police brutality to reach every person’s phone in America and awaken society have also allowed every asshole with a tinfoil hat to spread QAnon psycho drivel. If the truth could be plainly seen, we’d all realize that it’s not left versus right, its everyone against the oligarchy and its racist engine.

  11. Love the new site. The off social media platform. Love the aesthetic. Thanks for the distraction from the histeria. Keep shredding and making art.

    -Dapoolparty

  12. A good answer I have read to find a solution to the mayhem is don’t do evil, do good and develop a kind heart. Maybe to airy fairy for some but would cut a lot of the crap out of peoples intentions when applied.

  13. The “connectedness” that social media brings can be great. But it’s also dangerous, because it allows people to say things they would never have the nerve to say if they were in the same room. From pure hate speech to virtue signaling and every, media-driven, thing between.

    It’s like that ass hole, road rage guy that flips you off and almost runs you off the road, but then rolls up his windows at the light. Except you don’t even have to be on the road to invade someone’s space anymore. You just make a fake profile.

    Hopefully we survive long enough to for it become cool to fact check shit. To say something when we witness someone being racist. And to not standby and let someone kill another person just because they have a badge and a gun.

  14. It’s a wild world, always has been… The ‘news’ has always been the catalyst to the fire. Orwell tried to warn us, yet here I am leaving a comment on a surf blog. There’s no going back and like you, I don’t have the answer either. All I can say is, I’ve always appreciated your surfing, you’re definitely one of the real ones.

  15. Dane – I’ve always said to myself…..”I don’t wanna be a cop…….” For all the reasons you listed and more but your insights are honest and genuine….. so intern accurate. (Most things really are that simple!) But yeah, I don’t wanna do that – same with being in military…… so I have no problem paying very, very well the people willing to take on such demanding responsibility. However, and I feel kinda small saying this……if your in such a position you better respect all that power and control you have and clearly understand your responsibilities. I recognize how extremely challenging it must be to make the right decisions under pressure in complicated situations. And sadly, I think it would be very hard to find enough candidates who could satisfy all those responsibilities, exercise force with confidence when needed, and maintain the mental robustness required to cope day in day out. Those would be very special and committed individuals, which unfortunately could actually require “increased” funding to produce such a caliber of representation. Personally, I’m all for it – but have doubts about the viability as I think it would require significantly more funding to make things better and ensure the entire force is……well – as close to perfect as we can get.

    1. Dane has always shown inspiration to everyone in our surfing communities across Cali, USA and abroad. Good job on a needed departure of your norm. I’ll agree with you and Stevo , policing isn’t something I’d rally myself everyday to do. The fact is the job is fucking difficult as hell and really shouldn’t be considered a lifetime career working the streets to keep justice. There has to be a better way to keep the peace and promote sanity throughout our global communities. Asking any man or woman to be at risk day in and day out is excessive servitude. One of my best surfing buddies brother was murdered here in San Diego by 4 police offers May 28th 1991. The mental requirements are too demanding for 10,20 or 30 year careers. We might find individuals with better brain powers to assess each volatile situation. Limiting street time in constantly adverse Urbana or even suburbia might help.
      Sunnys comment about so many of us white surfers don’t engage in polarized action. We can do quite a lot by only supporting businesses and politicians who carry the equality we want on a daily basis.
      The end of this is near and we should all refuse to live in fear or social captivity! Pray for waves.

  16. pretty spot on. its difficult to make sense of it all because this thing that connects so many people has the ability to turn adults into kids as far as emotional intelligence to deal with the constant fight or flight inducing communication or lack there of the internet has created. 52 answers for why 1+1 doesn’t equal 2 and the one person saying the answer is 2 isn’t loud enough or popular enough so it get lumped in with 51 other answers and opinions. we just need to get back to figuring out how to enjoy the extremely short time we have and live with th simple idea of treat others how you want to be treated. the assholes will be assholes and we just gotta keep moving on and accepting that there will be assholes in the world. most of them end up littered through out the malibu line ups paddling around frantically trying to “get the inside” dropping in on each other when they are far too deep to make any section but they go anyways just to blow the wave for everyone else because they have zero etiquette or awareness to how waves break compared to their ideas of how good they are.. so maybe we can start there?

  17. Thanks for being real Dane. Surfing seems to be the only ‘normall’ thing going on these days — appreciate your dedication to the craft and content.

    The system we live does seem broken – littered with corruption and injustices. We spend so much money trying to treat the problems — but we could refocus that attention and money on rebuilding a new world. Find a way to provide a safe and healthy life for everyone — regardless of their social status or the color of their skin. Rebuild a criminal justice system to promote solutions and not incarceration — spend all the money saved on closing prisons to provide education and counseling for at risk populations. Tax all the corrupt + polluting corporations and spend the money on protecting the environment and building a resilient future. Repurpose all the worthless cruise ships to shelters for the homeless at ports around the world. I don’t have all the answers but it seems we all need a bigger dose of common sense and compassion for our fellow residents — a little decency would go a long way.

    We need to recognize that mistakes were made in the past that have led to injustices – a pain that runs deep — anyone that denies that needs to visit more at risk communities and talk with kids who aren’t given a chance from the start. Childcare, shelter, education and healthcare are basic needs that we are failing to provide in one of the most (or previously most) developed countries in the world. We need to invest in the next generation and show them they can find equality in this system — because right not there is a shit ton of frustrated and angry people. Time to look internally and figure out how we can all live peacefully together. Support legislation and leaders who share your values — help out those in need in anyway you can. Use business for good — and damn it —- Vote!

    Keep surfing.

  18. It’s times like these we need to turn to the words of Jebus…

    “Don’t be a cunt”

    So when you feel you’re maybe about to be a cunt, don’t do it.

    1. Actually Jesus didn’t say anything weak like that at all, what he said is much harder to achieve..
      “Love your neighbor as yourself” is a proactive instruction requiring positive action person by person in ALL relationships. IF it was to be applied universally the world would be transformed.
      However, unless you adhere to some higher authority regarding human responsibility there is no compass for behavior, no agreed expectation, no common end goal. The old term for this is Godlessness.
      Observing from a very great distance but also in my backyard – the removal of the compass is massively destructive and in a few (de) generations heads a civilization downhill fast – we are livin’ it.
      If you want change – try being a Jesus follower for one day – then the next. Enjoy the journey.

  19. Most people will scoff at this, because it’s not the popular opinion but I digress, Satan and his demons are wreaking havoc on this earth which is why no human no matter how hard we try can get a handle on the evil in our society, if we could humble ourselves for a moment and realize humans aren’t the most powerful beings in the universe in fact we’re pretty low on the rung. Im only typing this here in hopes that it’ll reach even one person and change their life forever. It all sounds well and good to say that we have to reach out to political leaders to tell them we need a change, to go out and chant in the streets. But haven’t people been doing that for years? What has it really accomplished? Yeah we’ve achieved certain freedoms, a perceived justice but honestly our world is worse than it was even a few years ago, I mean really? what makes the President or Prime Minister any more politician more powerful than u except a title & maybe more money, weapons etc at the end of the day he’s just an imperfect human just like you and me, who has zero power to change the 🌏 and obviously doesn’t care really care that much. Its not “Up To Us” to make the changes necessary needed to stop the forest fires in Australia or California, to stop the glaciers melting in Greenland, or the death of forest animals and our fellow humans. Its NOT up to us. Again the truth is never popular, but the truth is that it’s up to the Almighty God and Father Jehovah to change our world. If you don’t know Jehovah he created us and the earth we all love, the ocean too, I suggest you get to know him & how powerful he is & realize that he is the ONLY power in the universe that can make the earth a better place for our future as human family. Yes, things are messed up now undeniably, but he has promised in the Bible to undo all the damage humans have done to the planet and turn the earth into a Paradise in the near future for those that love him.He’s waiting for the right time but this world can’t keep going on like this. Study the Bible and see for yourself if we try hard to do the right thing he will forgive your sins by means of his son Jesus, and you can have a shot at that beautiful future ahead. Its the truth the powers that be don’t want you to believe. The enemy wants you to be confused and scared and distracted, but you don’t have to be or stay that way. Please check out jw.org Dont believe blindly anything anyone says whether its me or the news or people on social media, assess all possible options but take courage and know a change is on the way but it will not be from a human source. The end is near and things are gonna keep getting worse till Armageddon comes. But a very good change is coming, please find yourself on the right side when the end comes. Love the edit Dane! Best wishes to you and your family!

      1. Masonic luciferian possessed zionist ordo ab chao anul dolor kabbala talmud ~ 95 % of pop.

  20. Worthwhile and thoughtful contribution to the conversation Dane.
    Also, super stoked that you’re sharing this video content in the way that you’re doing it. Much respect.

  21. Its a fucking mess man. Above all else the people in charge are human. They too dont know what the hell is going on. Which is ok. I hope the end result is awareness that every single person truly is equal.

  22. As a surf culture we could focus on supporting black surfers and surfers of color and organization that help black people learn to surf. We could take responsibility for our vibes in the water so new or young surfers of color feel welcome. We can learn more about racism. It’s not enough to think, I’m not a bigot, I don’t discriminate so none of what’s happening right now is my problem. If you are like me (a white person) and you take a honest look at yourself, there is a lot of work to be done. This is a moment to change our hearts and start participating in change at home, work and in our communities.

  23. Thanks for your honest take and for exposing yourself to the critics that will ultimately come at you. It’s all noise, filter it out.

  24. From the Wikipedia page for Balance Fallacy:

    “There is a choice to make between doing X or doing Y. Therefore, the answer is somewhere between X and Y.

    The problem is that it’s possible that either X or Y is entirely true, meaning that only partially doing the right thing makes little sense. This argument is generally built around the idea that the middle point between two extremes is equal parts of each side and therefore equally acceptable to both sides; but as the saying goes, half a kitten is not half as cute, it’s a bloody mess.”

    I can see what you’re going for. I, too, enjoy having my balls licked by sycophants. Keep up the great work, Dane-o.

  25. Thinking logically, rationally, critically, is not what the easily falsifiable BLM claims are about and by doing so you are risking accusations of “white privilege” and racism. What are you trying to do? Be reasonable?

  26. Yah..we’re old. We get it. You got it. We just stay out of the way …..no answers. Not lookin too good

  27. We can’t change the past, but we can change the future. A prophet once said, “No other success can compensate for failure in the home”. If we choose to have a family, and it hopefully is a choice and not an accident, it’s incumbent on us to teach our children respect, tolerance, and love for our fellow man. That should be our legacy. I see that going on all around me, but it takes time, even generations to realize change. We have come a long way. Change to mankind begins with each of us, then the people we directly influence, our families.

  28. Dane’s comments are articulated well. but Todd’s introduction actually has a hint of the same problem being discussed here- and he probably doesn’t even realize it. Todd writes “Polling shows that most Americans agree with the cause of the Black Lives Matter movement”. Did Todd get this polling quote from FB, IG, CNN?Specifically, how was the question asked in the poll? The facts are that, if asked properly, most Americans DO agree with the Black Lives Matter ‘slogan’. But, there is a HUGE difference between the slogan Black Lives Matter- and the movement or organization Black Lives Matter. Todd, perhaps should take some of Dane’s comments to heart and spend a little more time researching the actual difference before using it as a prelude.

    1. …..hint- the BLM movement is directed by the three female founders. They are all admitted and proud Marxist’s (Communists) that want our current American system completely abolished.

      Separately, how about another fact- have you seen one, just one (!) public or printed statement by a Black Lives Matter organization member, disavowing any of the current violence, property destruction or anarchy? Yeah, me neither.

  29. Dane- I applaud your attempt to engage people on the very serious subject of systemic racism and police brutality. There is a very real need for police reform and for important institutional changes like the use of video body cameras and elimination of dangerous body choke holds. The reality is that a disproportionate number of black humans have died as a result of police misconduct. I participated in a very positive protest and paddle out here in the South Bay. Like you, I am optimistic that the universal condemnation and anger created by the killing of George Floyd will lead to critical and necessary change that will benefit all. It is critical that we all VOTE in the upcoming election to voice our need for change…then go surfing!!

  30. Thanks for your open minded approach here, clearly it shows in your surfing too, we all love it.

    “Capitalism promotes racism”, – Richard Pryor. We dismiss the economic and social forums too easy as we live in a scarcity driven structure, ‘only the strong survive’. We get considered a wimp, or a socialist, communist, etc., if we reference collaboration and compassion. Yet those are the core principles our species, (all species) depend on, actual democracy, egalitarian methods. Those date deeper than Darwin. (And Jesus)

    Money vs Humanity, it seems the pandemic is clearly showing what we value. The institutions are crumbling, Politics, Pharma, Wall St, educations, religion, military, Police and so on. UBI seems to meet these short term needs until a sustainable structure replaces the existing archaic one in place.
    The cries of desperation are here, you got a platform.

  31. everyone needs to stop labelling, categorising and segregating themselves in the world. Its okay to be your own self and identity but there’s no reason to start promoting that unless of course your actually self conscious of your own self. This isn’t my opinion but I think its a good tip for humanity. cheers.

  32. 4:40-4:50 is some objective reality in a world where most things are not, currently.
    Me and my friends are so grateful to be able to watch you surf even shit waves again, Dane.

  33. One way to not contribute to the madness and hysteria is to simply leave people to their shouting, give them a knowing smile, and then roll up your sleeves and get to work. Just lead by example and do good things. It’s really not hard to find something good to do. There are some obvious problems that nearly anyone who’s paying attention can agree on. Poverty, environmental destruction, racism. Everyone here is imaginative and smart enough to find some simple way to help one of those problems. Give it a couple hours of your time once a week and you will be well on your way to making the world a better place. You don’t need to “have all the answers” and you never will. Nothing you or anyone does is going to solve the problem overnight. Don’t let that stop you from simply getting to work.

    Dane, you’re not just some guy. You’re famous, you run a company, and you’re the public face of other companies. You have power, and if you want to be a good person then you need to use some of that power to help other people. What can Former do to help someone out? Too many possibilities to count; choose one. Nobody’s asking you to pick a side or shout or pose or do anything but lead by example and get to work on something that helps. Help a poor person. Help a black person. Help anyone in need. But the key is action, not words. I don’t see you out there complaining about how the surf industry is so lame or how so and so has no style… you just shred and let your surfing do the talking. With that in mind, I hope the next post is just a bullet list of things you did.

  34. Dane,
    If you want to debunk some myths that have ruled our thinking for the past 50+years, you should consider reading Rutger Bregman easy to read novel: “Human kind, a hopeful history”. One of the first things he mentions: don’t watch the news, it’s about exceptions, and backs it up with data. Pretty straightforward.
    Good to hear you are using your compass. Having travelled a fair bit myself, and living abroad for a few years, i learned quickly that we are all the same, everywhere, poor and rich, and can connect if we are open to it. I am sure you have similar experiences!

    What do I do, I am trying to focus on what I can handle, my daughter, my family, my job, my independent media providers, my local businesses, and create positive impact where I can. It is hard to ignore the circus around us, but it serves us no good to focus too much on it. Wasted time, energy and karma. I have done so in the past and continue to inform myself, but instead focussing on the good that’s happening out there, because there s more of that going around than what media is showing you.

    I mean, I got and get frustrated sometimes, but after 40+ years on this earth, I realize that’s probably at the moment the way to go for me.

    Good luck and spread the love!

    Mark

  35. Dane, thanks for posting this.
    First up, let’s start changing the language. Were they slaves, or enslaved humans? Very subtle difference but one dehumanises just enough. Then there’s, ‘Slave Masters’ – masters of what exactly? Seems very ‘good’ to be a master doesn’t it. Like Masters of the Universe? Mastermind,
    Second thing, as a ‘white free-minded, non-racist slightly left socialist liberal’…. I highly recommend every white person here read ME & WHITE SUPREMACY by Layla F Saad (or listen on Audible – honestly I couldn’t read it without the help of the audio book!) Its a huge eye opener about your views, the system, what you believe to be true, and if you do the work correctly you will learn a lot about yourself to effect positive change, both immediate and generationally. It’s not easy. And requires a lot of commitment. But it’ll be the most valuable time you’ll ever spend.
    Good luck out there everyone.
    Deano

  36. Great work on starting the conversation! nothing is going get better without first identifying the problems around us, talking about them and the possible solutions. From there you can move on to doing something about them effectively.

    I think it is the responsibility of anyone that is privileged enough to be educated and financially secure to look carefully and scrutinize the information we are told (or shielded from) and then have the courage to start a constructive discussion with those around you, particularly if they have opposing views. This isn’t easy, and you definitely have to pick your battles, but you’ll always learn something and education is everything.

    There’s always going to people that will only look out for themselve but I think the majority want a world without corruption, cruelty, poverty, etc. if everyone was educated (and thats not realistic) then we wouldn’t keep voting for governments that put the profits of a few before the well being of all, in particular: the environment, under privileged and animals.

  37. It seems Daniel Duane, ‘started’ this whole new discussion’ of surfers being racist about a year ago, in an article he wrote. Seems Duane was ‘intimidated’ by the words “Kooks go Home” (that had a swastika next to it) on the steps to the beach on one of his first surfs as a adult learner.
    I think it made a bad impression on his mind as a newbie to surfing.
    In Mr. Duane’s article, after he lists a few surfers he believes may have been racist, he goes on to name a list of abuses, by Politicians, the State Legislature, the County, etc.,– such as the Jim Crow law, Redlining, Forced Sterilization, Segregated Housing by the coast, a long long list. All of these, perpetuated by ‘NON’- surfers, in the same article supposedly just about surfers and rascism. Laws passed that surfers, had absolutely ‘NOTHING” whatsoever to do with.

    It seems Mr. Duane, as a new learner had some other issues with ‘His’ ‘Percieved’ view of surfers, mentioning 3 times they had blond hair and blue eyes, while he didn’t. He seemed a little fixated on it. I don’t know, none of my surf bros had blond hair and blue eyes, (it never seemed an issue to us), we just wanted to surf.

    Conclusion, The actions of a ‘miniscule’ few, don’t make surfers as a whole racist, far from it. Surfers seem to be some of the most culturally accepting, non-rascist people I know. Why try and put a undeserved guilt trip on a whole group of people, because of some alleged actions by a miniscule few.

    1. I guess I should chime in as one of the few African American surfers that exist in the world. Where to begin? It’s hard to talk about racial injustice. For one thing, whenever someone does, some “white” people might feel attacked and react like, “why are you trying to make me feel guilty?” Or, “racism doesn’t exist, you are the one creating this.” I grew up surfing and skateboarding so the vast majority of my friends are “white”. Hardly any of them ask me what it’s like to be a “black” man in this society. If I told them the stories of how many times I encounter racism, they would trip out. Or, it’s so far out of their paradigm that they say, “well maybe it’s because of this or that.” So I just don’t talk about it; or I bring it up in the moment and they think it’s an isolated event. Unfortunately it’s not. I think in order to combat this, first we need to deconstruct this paradigm of there being a “white” race and there being a “black” race. This is a social construct that’s not based on any science. It’s an archaic idea that’s been used to divide and conquer people. With this belief you can say things like, “why are those people rioting?” Or, “why don’t those people just stop complaining?” When you realize that these are humans reacting like any human would under these circumstances, then we move closer to deconstructing the problem. Listen with an open mind and an open heart to your black friends. It might be uncomfortable but we might have to be a little uncomfortable to deconstruct some of these old paradigms. At least be glad that you don’t have to think about this BS all the time like “black” people do.

  38. Appreciate you sharing your perspective Dane. The hyper-drive media cycle delivered constantly via our quasi-cyborg tech gadgetry is shaping “reality” for all of us in ways we can’t fathom in real-time. The skills-capacities to process situations arising on a wave perhaps help some of “us” surfers better navigate how to read & respond to events elsewhere in life. YouTube algorhythms fed me this old clip of Richard Pryor from a long forgotten TV talk show in the 70’s. His observations are timely and truthful as anyone’s take. “If we stopped racism, people might talk to each other and see what the real problem is. Greedy people. – Richard Pryor

  39. This is coming from a kind and respectful place, however, you have to use your platform to call it how it is. There is a huge problem with misinformation and the distortion of facts, yes this is evident and it applies to almost everything we see on mainstream media. But the responsibility lies within us to look into it, get all the information, and develop an educated position on the matter. Another problem is that what’s going on with the destruction of the civil liberties of Black Americans is not a two-sided issue that you can develop a position on. It’s been going since the inception of the country and hasn’t been fixed. A person who continues to grow, continues to learn upon their past, and the history of this country time and time again reminds us that people like us do not experience the same America as those who have been cheated by the institution that claims to serve them equally. There’s no conspiracy that the media is perpetrating to “trick” people into caring about Black people and demanding equal rights. Because if you know about the shady history of the US, you’d know that historically, they have done everything to ensure people only care/ pay attention to themselves, keeping the people powerless. We can do so much bette than remaining in our bubbles, and we have to even if it fucking sucks coming out of that bubble.

  40. Dane I have always respected you and supported what you’ve done. Former felt like a cool thing to be apart of and not just a surf brand. Sympathizing with the police was really hard to read. I understand you or your family will never have to wonder if the police are going to kill you for existing. We don’t have the choice of sympathizing. We are trying to not be shot, killed, arrested, tear gassed, or beaten. That’s our reality. White privilege drives white supremacy while the police enforce it. I don’t look to white pro surfers as leaders, but this needs to be included in this dialogue. We all love an indigenous art this is surfing and are not all straight white men.

  41. “Do good, and good will come to you” Robert Nesta Marley. That is the only way to live. Pura Vida from Costa Rica. Spread the love.

  42. Expand our consciousness, do what we love, meditate and go “off grid” as much as we can. Thanks Dane for sharing your thoughts

Comments are closed.