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SURFERS

Aton

Rolo

Last February when California’s winter died an early death Eithan headed over to Puerto Rico to link up with good friend Rolo for a swell. They ran into Mikey Wright and Mikey’s longtime filmer/collaborator Wade Carrol (watch the bomb they’ve just released here) who were also over for the swell and together they scored a maxing day at one of PR’s heaviest slabs of reef.

Eithan describes how much of a madman Mikey is “he was going on ones he had 0% chance of making. The scariest bombs nobody wanted a part of he’d turn under the lip and get hucked. He made a couple crazy ones though but then he got smoked and slammed his head on the bottom.” For that footage you’ll have to wait, but after that Mikey checked out and headed back to Hawaii. Wade posted up with Eithan, Rolo and crew. 

They spent countless days in Rolo’s shaping bay getting fried and carving out some rudimentary planks of foam and fiberglass waiting for the swell to fill back in. Eithan carefully (but not effectively) whittled, laminated and sanded his first handmade surfboard. It’s an eyesore. The deck is wavy, there’s bits of garbage mixed in with the resin, the bottom has unintentional channels, a total clunker. 

But somehow the thing rips. Or at least Eithan has enough will to make it rip. When the swell filled back in Eithan was glued to the unsightly specimen of a surfboard, determined to prove it’s not a plug.

This is what surfings all about – Experimentation, raw inventiveness, adaptation, working it out, making it work.

He also completed some extremely impressive maneuvers on this turd of a surfboard that he’s saving for Snapt 4.

SURFERS

Micky

Micky wasn’t always emo. Here’s what happened as I remember it:  First he became at odds with his main sponsor over a myriad of issues I won’t get into, but he left an unsigned agreement on the table with a hope and a dream of a whispered potential opportunity elsewhere. That is pretty bold (and rogue) in the industry’s current state. Shortly after that decision he hurt his ankle while landing a massive frontside air reverse. Weeks out of the water. Possibly months. Then he had to quit smoking weed because it was giving him panic attacks. Oh, and girlfriend bailed on him out of the blue with a text “don’t be perplexed.” Dad’s hassling about too much time on the sticks. He started questioning everything. Early life crisis. Emo Micky was born. He got trapped in his head pondering purpose and meaning in a world filled with chaos. 

But the good news is Happy Micky is back. I just crossed paths with him down in Mexico as I was leaving after a Stab project and he was arriving for a swell. The whisper of sponsorship deal with Vans came through. Ankle’s healed. Girlfiend’s forgotten. Things are looking up. He looked stoked. 

Looking forward to a bomb ass Vans part and more projects together.

Thanks for tuning in,

Dane

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