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SURFERS

Zach Kiets

Other Kid

Dane Reynolds

Eithan Osbourne

Micky Clarke

Matt Mccabe

FILMED

MINI

Hunter Martinez

Matt doesn’t believe human behavior is influencing global warming. Matt has a 5th grade degree in science from Pierpont elementary. 

It’s December 7th and it feels like it’s June. Been flat and gloomy. August had 55 degree water. I swear the pipe used to have a half decent arrangement of cobbles for a somewhat rippable albeit soft peeler. Now it’s a turd. Theres a graveyard of pipe cobbles at San Jon. No rain to restock the pipe.

‘Star Bar,’ remember that? Every 4/5 years there’d be a rain event significant enough to create a massive sandbar at Santa Clara river mouth that extended out 100 yards sometimes more. It’s been about 17 years since  the last ‘Star Bar.’ 

What I’m saying is I notice a change, in my short time of paying attention to the weather where I live, 20 or so years, and that is alarming. 20 years is a tiny slice of time for drastic change. Is it purely a cycle? Or is the earth a microwave choking on carbon and there’s no turning back?  I know everyone reading this is an expert, can we get some scientific evaluation? Anyone wanna compare notes from your regional data? 

Thanks for tuning in

Dane

Br

28 thoughts on “013

  1. I had the same feelings for last two months in Barcelona, and the weather and tiny waves around our coast have been out of normal. I still remember the day I was one of ten winners to receive for free the film Thrills, Spills and What Not. All my life will feel extremely grateful for that and send the film to my small city, close to Barcelona, from California. Still feel so privileged to have it at home, in terms of spanish surf culture as world surf culture. I’m so lucky Dane.

  2. In Santa Cruz the swell angles are no longer predominant North / Northwest. Allot more Souths, all year. I think the water level is consistently higher. So that has altered sand placement and reef structure etc. During a decent swell at high tide at the Hook, I couldn’t use the stairs to get out, after dark. Also couldn’t use plan B to exit from the stairs further down the cove called Privates. Ended up paddling a mile down to Capitola Pier to get in. No other option. Old line-ups up the coast are no longer useable. Kinda, but not as they were until 5 years ago when things really accelerated into weirdness. I think the ocean is at least a ft. higher… And maybe more. Ask the Islanders whose Islands are submerging. And this is just the start….

  3. I feel this. My 20th is tomorrow and I feel super confused about shit all the time. Thanks for putting out dope ass surf content Dane you helped me through tough times man

    1. Rough stuff happens to us all Kainoa. Just know that when it gets hardest you are on the verge of breakthrough. Keep trucking. You have the strength to get through it. Set a goal, progress each day and you will find satisfaction through your hard work.

  4. Noticed the same thing here in the Overberg, South Africa. Seasonal sand bars we used to consistently surf 10-16 years ago have yet to make a return. Back then I was in high school and could only surf those sand bars after school and on weekends. I would sit in class staring out the window, cursing at the rustling leaves as the daily 10am onshore trade winds picked up, knowing what I must have missed in the early morning hours. To console me, my mom would always say: “There will always be more waves”. Let’s hope she was right, that it’s just a cycle and that earth isn’t chocking on a human induced greenhouse gas fur ball.

  5. Part of what killed Star Bar is that the sandbar was broken open by the county or Ventura Water. Partly to keep McGrath campgrounds from getting flooded. Once the river mouth was designated a protected estuary that went away. Now I doubt we will have any storm big enough to break it open since the water is running south parallel to the shore.

    1. Good points Boog, but let’s not forget about the Freeman Diversion Dam out by South Mountain Road. It’s a giant concrete speed bump directly in the path of prime sediment. So instead of 25-30 miles of Santa Clara sand like it had before, the sand flow now begins After the dam, and has been reduced to about 10 miles Total ! Not good for producing bars. Just my theory…

  6. Unfortunately, I’ve been thinking a lot about this recently. I’m in San Diego and we haven’t had a decent swell since October, and even the two or so swells we got weren’t that good. I remember the winter of 2017-2018ish was sick (i think it was the el Nino) overhead pretty much every day for months. I think I remember you were still putting out edits at the time probably cuz there were actually waves. Other than the el Ninos and la Ninas I feel like the swells are lacking and have only been getting more few and far between. Last winter we had a good run of swell here towards the end of December and most of January but that was it, pretty much no waves before or after. Where I surf picks up a lot of swell and used to get really good often (just ask Tknox about his favorite left in sd) but this year I feel like we’ve just been getting shitty west wind swells without enough north in it to get my home break decent. Just shoulder high onshore closeouts with no hope on the forecast. Thanks for giving me somewhere to vent and still putting out videos that always get me so fired up

  7. Big changes everywhere. Record drought, record rain, record heat, cold, and on and on and on. Surf has gotten worse where I live in southern Baja over the last 13 years. So surely there is somewhere that’s improved along with climate change, right? Sand in the right place where it didn’t used to be? Off season swells providing fun surf in places that aren’t known for it. Where? If you know of such a place keep it to yourselves haha.

  8. Further up the coast, in the NW it’s been the same baffling patterns. No longer getting any reliable high pressure systems for offshore wind. All side and cross-onshore flow for the most part, and the wind is also much stronger on average (consistently >15mph). Winter forecasting used to be easy for NOAA/NWS and Spring was a crap-shoot for them. Now they can’t forecast out a week in Winter to save their asses. The N Pacific is schizophrenic. If anyone hasn’t noticed this change in the last 20+ years, they are not paying attention.

  9. As far as what happened to the Star Bar, Emma Boog nailed it – the county stopped draining the estuary on heavy rain years which changed the dynamics of the water discharge. The same thing happened up and down the coast and many places were changed. Malibu is a good example, apparently the water used to be let out at the top of the point (3rd point) which spread the sand out down down the whole point, whereas now it lets out closer to 1st point, lowering the quality of the 2nd and 3rd points. Some guy tried to dig a channel out at 3rd point a decade or so ago in the middle of the night and got arrested for it. Star Bar was one of the best waves in California hands down. Not only would it typically break over 100 yards off shore, it could be a perfect A frame with 200+ yard reeling barrels in both directions. The 1st time I ever surfed it was in the early 90’s, and that year the rights were were every bit as perfect as the right at Kelly’s wave pool. Kelly himself could verify this, as he was out there putting on a clinic with a full head of hair. The day prior I also watched him (with Chris Brown I think) up at SB’s most notorious reef break. The last time I got Star Bar was in the early 2000’s and it was a full blown island that you had to paddle out to and walk cross to get to the surf. It was horseshoe shaped, with a few A frames in the middle, and a perfect left on the north side, and a perfect right on the south side – Curren was out a lot that year. So no, man made global warming isn’t what ruined Star Bar, but rather man made coastal conservation did.

    1. Alexis Usher’s “Best Move 2” (I think) has some good Star Bar (though I gotta I grew up in SB and we always just called it Santa Clara Rivermouth – I don’t remember “Star Bar”!). Lots of Slater and Brownie footage in that vid. I remember reading about Merrick wading across the river and then his pants deteriorating.

  10. I reckon one of the elements that ppl have said above is La Nina. I live in South Africa & we had a funky winter season that has been rather long compared to other years. Long and shitty though. Both Ballito/DBN areas had a dud winter and so did jbay (compared to other years for sure). Cape Town was OK, but that is normal.

  11. I live on a tropical island and I have also noticed a lot of changes. They have been happening for quite some time. I don’t recognize many beaches I used to know when I was a kid, because the high water mark is getting higher and higher. A lot of erosion, too. Some beaches have completely disappeared. Since a few years, there’s been changes in the swells as well. Less waves than usual in winter, more waves than usual in summer. Out of season cyclones. Higher temperatures in summer, colder temperatures in winter. We are slowly entering a new climate area, in my opinion. I hope that won’t cause humanity to go extinct but if it does we have been looking for it all around.

  12. First off, thanks from here in Puerto Rico to the whole chapter11 crew for putting out fun, strange surf content on a somewhat regular basis.

    Guilt
    I’m at least as guilty as anybody else here in terms of contributing to global warming. The amount of driving and flying that I’ve done (often in search of surf) is gluttonous at least. This awareness of the negative impact of my surf lust has definitely left me less willing to jump on a plane than before (separate from COVID concerns).

    I’d like to find ways to enjoy quality surf regularly without contributing to the problem, but definitely am not there yet. I tried biking everywhere for about six months. But there are only so many surf spots within a reasonable distance of where I live. So I’m presently back to burning fuel to chase waves again.

    On Sea Level Rise
    If you have some reef breaks near you that prefer high tide, fortune may smile upon you in the coming years. For all of you low tide spot lovers, my condolences. There are so many places that just aren’t going to break as often (or with good quality) if the predictions about glacier collapse actually play out as forecast.
    https://www.msn.com/en-us/weather/topstories/doomsday-glacier-ice-shelf-could-shatter-within-5-years-scientists-say/ar-AARO4bW

    Solutions anyone?
    What things might those of us in the surf community be able to do? Granted the problem seems overwhelming, but any solution starts with a small group of folks, right? At the same time, a lot of the (important) cultural norms within the surf community create pressure against coordination (don’t talk about secret spots, don’t crowd out a break, etc.) That said, the fact that we tend to play alongside each other means we at least have relationships as a starting point. I know the surfers in my area better than I know my neighbors. So maybe it is the surf community where such stumblings toward solutions would be most easily started (at least for someone like me).

  13. I miss Oil Pier. Nothing to do with climate change. There used to be an awesome pier just south of little Rincon. Miss it.

  14. Two things.

    Did Seal Tooth once have to ring and apologise to Kelly for saying his wheelie airs were lame?

    “That” surf in Japan, can it be reposted here?

    Kindest of regards.

  15. One of my friends has a masters degree. He’s one of the stupidest people I know. Does matt think the world is flat too??

    1. Like watching matt surf though and he seems like a cool guy. Dont think humans cooking the planet and climate is a debate anymore though. In West Aus so many waves have changed, mainly for the worse. Weather patterns definitely pay a part aswell, they are definitely not an annual thing

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