Eithan is 20 years old – not old enough to buy a beer but old enough to go to war. He drives a beige mid 2000’s brown Volvo stationwagon which not that long ago was synonymous with Karine, his mom, always pulling up with two groms hanging out the windows. A Motorhead sticker now adorns the back.
My brother ‘coached’ Eithan for a bit so I asked him if he had anything to contribute –
“Aton ….he was about 8 or 9. He was buck toothed and skinny, but strong and wiry. I was working for his dad at the time. He asked me if I’d want to get paid to take off at lunch on Tuesday and Thursdays and you know “take Aton surfing and coach him up a bit.”
I have no idea why his dad thought my brother was qualified as a surf coach, but…
“I knew Aton was already a black belt in Tae Kwando , which meant to me he could kick a 6 ft man in the head. So I knew he had potential. I pretty much just told him that putting power and style into his turns and airs would set him apart from the rest of the kids. Then I told him to bend his knees and watch where he’s going.”
When my brother fell on hard times they gave him a place to stay.
“their whole family treated me like I was a part of them when I was bad, they didn’t know how bad, but still… I had it better there than at home, watching TV and eating family dinners. Like the Simpsons. Dane (his dad) is like a tobacco chewing beer drinking good ole boy from SoCal and his mom is a French Hebrew speaking humanitarian. It’s pretty funny combo.”
Eithan had an illustrious amateur career, won his first pro contest at 18 in Israel, where I’ve heard he’s become quite famous, even qualifying for their team in surfing’s Olympic debut through his moms side of the family’s ties.
But I’d say the real challenges lie ahead for an aspiring pro surfer. You can have all the talent and determination in the world but with fickle industry support based off engagement numbers and a competitive circuit where a certain amount of luck is involved there’s no guaranteed path to success.
And what is the measure of success for a surf career?
Trophies? Titles? Covers? Not any more… Youtube subscribers? Money made?
I’m forever grateful for guys like Taylor Steele and Kai Neville who gave my generation a platform to do tricks to music. And thankful for surf magazines that organized trips and employed surf photographers who took pictures of us which got printed in said magazines thus validating sponsorships.
That system has collapsed, and it aint comin back.
If Chapter 11 TV has any small part in guiding the next generation of surfers and keeping it fun while providing a platform the way magazines and video makers did for us, then for me that’s a success.
Thanks for tuning in.
(In order of appearance)
Unknown (soft top go pro)
Eithan Osbourne (smoked)
Dane Reynolds (34 year old blogger boy)
Dillon Perillo (30 year old frat boy/mathematician )
Curt Harper (almost catches a wave but bellyboards onto my head)
Matt Mccabe (can’t catch a wave)
Micky Clarke (mitchard)
Add sand to the ridiculous set of variables that need to unite for waves to break at optimum quality. Dirt of the ocean. Soil for waves.
Sand is a granular material composed of finely divided rock and mineral that’s defined by size, being finer than gravel and coarser than silt. Erosion of sea cliffs is responsible for 67 percent of California’s beach sand, but it’s likely to have all landed on the coast through mountain watersheds and gone through many cycles of being buried, exposed, buried and liberated again. It’s mostly composed of mica, quartz, granite and shells.
In the industrial world, sand is an “aggregate,” a category that includes gravel and crushed stone. Natural aggregate is the world’s second most exploited natural resource, after water. It’s the primary base material that concrete and asphalt are placed on during the building of roads, buildings, parking lots, runways, and many other structures. Windowpanes, wineglasses, and cell-phone screens are made from melted sand.
It was also used to create the waves which we are exploiting in this video.
This spot was an institution in the 80’s with a tightly regulated lineup. Guys like Davey Miller and Danny Hedges sat at the top of the hierarchy. Chapter 11 TV filmer Mini was there –
“South Jetty Bodyboard Crew was a known thing. Me, Forbes, Aichner and Phil Corsi were the regular’s…then the Landucci’s of course!”
In 1993 congress approved funding to build a 650 ft groin to the which harbor officials deemed necessary to ‘catch sand that sweeps into the harbor entrance from the south.’ Surfrider foundation contended that the natural flow of sand is north to south and the jetty would actually trap sand in the harbor and deplete sand from Oxnard beaches but they lost the battle and just 45 days later the U.S. Army Corps of Engineers finished construction of the “New Jetty.”
At first surfers were stoked, “It made it better,” said 20-year-old Ventura resident Jesse Conlan “It created new sandbars.”
But eventually the beach filled up, which I can attest to, cause in late 90’s me and my friends would paddle across the harbor when it was flat in our neighborhood hoping ‘New Jetty’ would have a flicker of south swell. It was a vacant shithole of a beach. Always dead animals. The sand almost extended beyond the ‘New Jetty.’
When they added 100 yards of rocks to the breakwall that was the nail in the coffin for jetty wedge. Visit the parking lot and you’ll hear all about it from the guys drinking beer and playing horseshoes every day awaiting it’s return…
‘New jetty’s’ sand normalized. It’s is still called ‘New Jetty’ nearly 30 years later and I still hate the wave. It bends out to sea or closes out or somehow does both at the same time and it’s always packed.
Once in a blue moon the sand moves into the place where the swells that bend around the breakwall collide with a borderline backwash refraction off the south jetty and it shows a glimmer of it’s old self. Mostly novelty but a lotta fun.
CH | 11 | TV | 003 was filmed over the course of 3 days last winter when the magic set of components aligned. Freshly dredged harbor and an off season south swell that pulled the sand into the perfect spot